During my recent visit to Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka’s ancient royal capital, I stumbled upon a hidden gem that awakened me: the Nelum Pokuna or Lotus Pond. While most visitors flock to the massive ruins of the Quadrangle or Gal Viharaya, this intricately designed stone bath remains somewhat tucked away, waiting for the curious traveller to discover its charm.
The Journey to Nelum Pokuna
Polonnaruwa’s vast archaeological site has a timeless appeal, and exploring it often feels like walking through a living museum. Exploring the city’s ancient ponds led me down a quieter path. A gentle turn away from the bustling tourist areas revealed the Nelum Pokuna, nestled amidst a tranquil, garden-like setting.
The atmosphere was serene. Tall trees swayed gently, casting dappled shadows over the ground. I could hear the faint chirping of birds and the occasional rustle of leaves in the breeze. As I walked closer, the stone bath came into view—a granite lotus flower carved with remarkable precision.
First Impressions: A Stone Lotus in Bloom
Seeing the Nelum Pokuna for the first time was captivating. The pool, carved entirely out of granite, resembled a blossomed lotus flower. Its design consisted of eight layers of petals, each tier descending gracefully inward, mimicking the natural bloom of a lotus.
The craftsmanship was stunning. The symmetry of the petals, the smoothness of the stone, and the sheer creativity behind the design left me speechless. I ran my fingers along the edge of one of the petals, feeling the cool, weathered surface. It was hard to believe that this intricate bath had stood the test of time for centuries.
The History Behind the Pond
As I stood there admiring the architecture, I couldn't help but reflect on its historical significance. The pond is believed to have been built during the reign of King Parakramabahu the Great (1153–1186). Historical accounts suggest that this stone bath was used by the monks of the Jetavana Vihara, offering them a place to cool off and refresh themselves.
Interestingly, this stone marvel also inspired modern architecture. The design of the Nelum Pokuna Theatre in Colombo was directly influenced by this ancient structure—proof that Sri Lanka’s artistic heritage continues to inspire contemporary creations.
A Closer Look at the Architecture
The pond has a diameter of approximately 24 feet 9 inches, with five concentric layers of lotus petals. As the petals move inward, they shrink in size, converging at a central circle that represents the flower's stamen. The water depth, approximately 4 feet 6 inches, makes it clear that the bath was functional, not merely decorative.
I was fascinated by the sheer precision with which the petals were carved into the granite. Despite centuries of exposure to the elements, the edges remained remarkably intact, showcasing the advanced skills of ancient Sri Lankan architects.
The Quiet Beauty of the Surroundings
One of the most magical aspects of the visit was the peaceful ambience. Unlike the busier areas of Polonnaruwa, the Nelum Pokuna felt like a secret sanctuary. Ancient flowering trees added to the charm, casting shadows over the stone petals and enhancing the tranquil vibe.
I sat on a nearby stone ledge, just taking in the view. The sun filtered through the trees, and the light danced across the stone, accentuating the intricate details of the lotus design. For a moment, it felt as if time stood still.
The Artistic and Spiritual Connection
While exploring the site, I couldn't help but think about the symbolism of the lotus flower in Sri Lankan culture. In Buddhism, the lotus represents purity, enlightenment, and spiritual awakening. The decision to create a bath in the shape of a lotus seemed deeply symbolic—offering a physical cleanse and perhaps a spiritual one.
Reflections on the Hidden Gem
What makes the Nelum Pokuna so unique is its understated elegance. It doesn’t have the towering grandeur of Gal Viharaya or the royal significance of the Sacred Quadrangle, but its simple yet sophisticated design leaves a lasting impression.
As I left the site, I couldn’t shake the feeling of having uncovered a hidden treasure. While thousands visit Polonnaruwa yearly, only a handful visit this beautiful pond. If you appreciate subtle yet brilliant architecture, the Nelum Pokuna is a must-see.
Tips for Visiting Nelum Pokuna
- Timing: Visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon for the best light and fewer visitors.
- Getting There: The pond is located a little off the beaten track. If you are unsure of its location, ask a local guide for directions.
- Footwear: Comfortable shoes are essential walking on uneven, ancient stone paths.
- Respect the Site: To help preserve this historical marvel, avoid climbing or sitting on the pond's delicate stone petals.
Final Thoughts
My visit to Nelum Pokuna (Lotus Pond) was a journey into Sri Lanka’s architectural genius. With its graceful lotus design, this small stone bath stands as a testament to the artistic vision and engineering prowess of ancient Sri Lankan builders.
In a city like Polonnaruwa, where every corner tells a story of kings, battles, and culture, the Nelum Pokuna offers something different. This quiet, reflective space showcases the island’s enduring relationship with nature and spirituality.
If you ever wander through Polonnaruwa, take a moment to seek out this hidden gem. Stand by its stone petals, feel the cool touch of granite beneath your hands, and be transported back to a time when architecture and nature blended perfectly.
