Visiting Delft Island in Sri Lanka was like stepping back in time, surrounded by echoes of a colonial past. Delft Dutch Fort captivated me the most among the island's many attractions. Reading "Romantic Ceylon: Its History, Legend and Story" by Ralph Henry Bassett beforehand made the experience even more enriching. Bassett describes this fort as a "powerful, fortified fort", initially believed to have been built by the Portuguese. Standing before its imposing ruins, I couldn’t help but imagine the stories embedded in its weathered stones.
Portuguese and Dutch Influence: A Colonial Legacy
The fort and the island itself have a fascinating colonial history. Upon their arrival, the Portuguese named the island "Ilha das Vacas"—the island of cows—due to the herds of wild ponies and cattle. Later, the Dutch renamed it Delft Island, perhaps after the picturesque city of Delft in the Netherlands. As I wandered through the fort's ruins, I reflected on how these colonial powers had left their distinct marks, shaping the island's identity. The fort’s strategic location in the Palk Strait must have made it a vital outpost for controlling maritime routes.
Geography and Landscape: A Barren Beauty
The island's barren landscape, dotted with Palmyra trees, added a stark beauty to my journey. The fort stood tall with little shade and open plains—its silhouette dominating the horizon. The Palmyra trees aren’t just picturesque; they’re culturally significant. I observed locals tapping these trees for toddy, a fermented drink central to their way of life. I learned that from January to September, the toddy season becomes a lively and sometimes quarrelsome time for the community—a fascinating insight into how nature shapes culture here.
The Ruins of the Forts: Mysteries and Legends
What intrigued me most was that Delft Island hosts not one but two fort ruins. The larger Dutch Fort is the star attraction, but in the island’s northwestern corner, I stumbled upon a smaller structure known locally as Vediyarasan Fort. Locals believe it was built by a regional king named Vediyarasan, but historical research reveals it to be the remains of three ancient Buddhist Stupas. The mix of colonial and Buddhist influences here is mesmerizing.
Up Close: The Small Fort-Like Structure
This smaller structure sits about 200 yards from the rocky beach at a slight elevation. Standing before it, I noticed its 20-foot height and 60-yard circumference, features that "Penn" described in the Colombo Journal in 1832. The chunam-covered walls with delicate mouldings hinted at past grandeur. The two flights of steps—one on the east and one on the west—led into the building's interior. The most unusual feature? The interior flooring starts 12 feet above ground level, a design unlike anything I’d seen in other colonial structures. Standing there, it was easy to imagine sentries watching the island’s coastline.
The Larger Fort: A Strange Yet Striking Structure
The leading Dutch Fort near the island’s jetty is an architectural mystery. As "Penn" described, it defies typical categories—not quite a fort, not entirely a tower. Its unusual design consists of a rectangle measuring 73 feet on its southern side and a square measuring 40 feet on the northern side. The walls, though weathered, still stand firm, whispering tales of colonial ambitions and battles fought.
I spent hours exploring its rooms and staircases. According to Joseph Pearson, an Englishman who conducted a detailed study in 1912, the fort’s double walls on the ground floor provided additional defence, while the single-walled upper storey may have been used for residential purposes. Pearson's research even corrected some of Penn’s earlier observations, such as the number of rooms on the upper level.
Inside the Fort: Rooms, Entrances, and Rooftop Views
The interior layout is surprisingly intricate—the ground floor houses six rooms arranged in pairs, each with its own entrance. The southwestern corner was fascinating—it’s filled with earth up to the first-floor level, possibly as a defensive measure. Climbing the staircases, I reached the upper storey, where six more rooms and two additional entrances awaited exploration. One staircase (Staircase C) intrigued me the most—it leads from Room 12 directly to the roof through the thick walls. Standing on the rooftop, I gazed across the Palk Strait, imagining the watchful colonial guards who once stood there, scanning the waters for approaching ships.
Final Reflections: A Walk Through Time
Exploring Delft Dutch Fort felt like walking through a living history book. The fort’s rugged walls, shaped by Portuguese ambition and Dutch precision, tell a story of conquest, trade, and survival. The Palmyra-lined landscape, ancient Buddhist remnants, and local cultural practices like toddy tapping added richness to the experience.
I highly recommend adding Delft Island to your itinerary for anyone visiting Sri Lanka. And suppose you want to immerse yourself further. In that case, Ralph Henry Bassett’s "Romantic Ceylon" is the perfect companion, offering a glimpse into how European travellers viewed this enchanting island during the colonial period.