Kurundi Rajamaha Viharaya | Mulathivu

About this Attraction

The decision to visit Kurundi Rajamaha Viharaya came from a deep-seated curiosity about Sri Lanka’s ancient Buddhist heritage. Nestled in the Kurundumale ruins of the Mulathivu District, this site has sparked debates and historical discussions for years. Is it a Buddhist monastery or a Hindu kovil? I was eager to see the site for myself, to stand amidst the ruins and feel the pulse of history beneath my feet.

The Journey to Kurundi: A Road Less Traveled

The road to Kurundi wasn’t exactly smooth, but the excitement of discovering this ancient site made every bump worthwhile. As we approached the area, the landscape gradually shifted from village surroundings to a terrain scattered with stone pillars, aged bricks, and a palpable sense of the past lingering in the air.

Upon arrival, I was met with the sight of weathered ruins partially hidden by shrubs and time. A nearby board declared it a protected archaeological site in 2013. Seeing these remnants of Kurundumale’s history against the backdrop of modern debates made the visit even more intriguing.

Stepping into History: The Ruins Speak

Walking through the site, I felt like an explorer unravelling the secrets of a bygone era. Stone slabs with faint inscriptions lay half-buried in the ground. The guide explained that these inscriptions were recorded as far back as 1905, but sadly, some had disappeared over time.

Though simple at first glance, the scattered stone pillars held silent stories of monks, pilgrims, and kings who once walked these grounds. I learned that King Kallatanaga was believed to have constructed the Kurundavashoka Monastery here—a structure that once thrived as a hub of Buddhist learning.

The Kurundi Attakatha: A Treasure of Knowledge

The guide led me to an area believed to have housed Kurundi Attakatha, an ancient Buddhist text in Hela Basa. Standing there, I imagined the monks meticulously documenting Tripitaka interpretations on palm leaves, unaware that centuries later, curious travellers like me would marvel at their dedication.

It was fascinating to hear how Mahinda Thero may have visited this site during the introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka, contributing to its spiritual significance. The Helatuwa collection, including Kurundi Attakatha, symbolized how knowledge flowed through these lands like an invisible river, connecting generations through scripture.

The Unique Architecture: More Than Just Stones

The architectural style of the ruins surprised me. Unlike the familiar stupas seen across Sri Lanka, these structures exhibited Tamil architectural influences—a testament to the complex historical interactions between communities.

The stone pillars stood in rows, some still firmly rooted, while others had toppled like forgotten sentinels. The guide pointed to the five-headed cobra carving, likely representing protective deities, and explained how Tamil residents later repurposed Buddhist materials to build a Hindu kovil during subsequent periods of cultural transition.

The Silent Witnesses: Stones and Stupas

I walked toward a mound covered in bricks and wild grass—the remnants of what was once a dagoba. Touching the sun-warmed stones, I wondered about the monks who meditated here centuries ago. Some bricks bore intricate carvings, their patterns worn yet still whispering stories of faith and craftsmanship.

The ruins also revealed traces of a shrine room, a guardstone with Punkalasa, and even pieces of Buddha and Bodhisattva sculptures. Learning that some of these artefacts are preserved at the Jaffna Museum made me appreciate the delicate balance between preservation and decay.

The Ongoing Controversy: A Historical Tug-of-War

The caretaker mentioned the ongoing controversy surrounding the site. While Buddhists assert its monastic roots, others claim it was once a Hindu temple. The tension between these perspectives was almost tangible in the atmosphere. However, standing amidst the ruins, I felt that history transcended these debates. The stones, the inscriptions, and the archaeological evidence painted a picture of a site that had witnessed multiple cultural layers through time.

Moments of Reflection: The Weight of Time

As the sun dipped toward the horizon, casting long shadows across the ruins, I sat on a moss-covered stone slab. The silence of the site contrasted with the noisy debates I had read about. Here, time felt suspended, and the present arguments seemed irrelevant compared to the profound sense of antiquity that hung in the air.

I closed my eyes and imagined monks chanting, ancient palm leaves rustling, and pilgrims seeking spiritual guidance walking softly. It was a humbling moment that reminded me of the ephemeral nature of human life compared to the enduring presence of these ancient stones.

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